Biological Anthropologist, Richard Wrangham’s new book Catching Fire: How Cooking Made Us Human explores the role of cooking in the evolution of what and how humans eat. Almost two million years ago, when Homo erectus lit the bonfire, the species began to consume a greater amount of calories.
The Softening of Foods
Wrangham explains that the larger molecules of raw food, meat or otherwise, take longer to digest, and therefore require more energy to be spent, than those which have been reduced in size due to the heat process of cooking. Think of it simply as “digestion math.” Softer foods are easier to digest and therefore you net more calories from the food because your body is spending less energy breaking them down. For example, digesting fibrous celery results in a zero net calorie gain since the energy output is equal to the energy input.
Wrangham highlights a study, that I now call the “Hamburger Python” study, which used digestion math. When pythons were given raw meat to eat in a ground up form like hamburger, the scientists saw a 12% reduction in energy required to digest. Taking it a step further, the scientists noticed by cooking the raw meat there was also a 12% reduction in energy required on behalf of the python.
Sample Problem:
12% reduction in digestion energy by grinding the meat before eating
+12% reduction in digestion energy by cooking the meat before eating
______
23% (When combined – like a cooked hamburger – it did not yield a simple 24% reduction; there must be some overlap between the two processes molecularly speaking.)
The python “consumed” more calories because the processing did not require as much calorie expenditure to digest the hamburger.
Because heat has the ability to break down the larger, more fibrous food molecules, food is softened to the point that it significantly reduces the amount of time it takes to chew. According to Wrangham, Chimpanzees take about six hours a day just to chew their (raw) food. The still more tightly bound molecules of food are then sent through the Chimps’ GI tract where oxygen (more than required for human digestion) is rerouted from the ambulatory muscles to the GI.
Nutritionally, the effect of cooking has a big impact. Immense! Some might say, obese!
Wrangham cites a study completed by Japanese dentists where four-week-old lab rats were separated into two groups. One group was given typical rat food while the experimental group were given the same food but it was processed to be softer by the addition of air. Everything else was kept constant, like a good scientific experiment. Both diets had the same water content, calorie count and nutritional profile. The rats also had the same daily routine filled with whatever kind of rat exercise they previously received. The rats fed the “air puffed” food grew at a faster rate and ultimately had 30% more body fat than their rat counterparts.
What the dentists concluded was that the softened food texture affected energy metabolism by lowering post-prandial (after eating) thermogenesis (heat production), which is a fancy way of saying the amount of energy the body spends to finish digesting the food. Because of the reduced energy cost of digestion, think “digestion math” again, the metabolic rate of the experimental rats was lower than that of the control.
What does this mean for us?
The researchers believed that the long-term deficiency of thermogenesis, associated with soft foods, results in a greater tendency toward obesity. Our food is becoming softer all the time and not just through cooking. Bread used to be crunchy and have a short shelf life, now it is made with heavily refined grains and can last weeks on top of your refrigerator. We eat linguini instead of cooked barley. We drink fruit juice and smoothies instead of whole fruit. This is just one more bullet point for the whole foods movement!
June 27, 2009
June 26, 2009
End of the Line: End of Eating Fish?
The year 2009 is ripe for food documentaries thanks to the growing “foodie” movement. Just this month both Food, Inc. and End of the Line were released. As a student of nutritional science, the latter made me frustrated by the message that was sent – stop eating fish. (To be fair the message at the end of the film was actually, “Ask before you buy: only eat sustainable seafood” however if you’ve seen the movie, fish eating is portrayed as a “guilty” pleasure.) So how can we be conscious fish eaters while not sacrificing the health benefits of this most appetizing and healthy food item?1.Diversify
Try types of fish that are new to you, in particular those listed as “Best Choices” according to your region’s Seafood Watch Guide. According to Charles Clover (who cited marine scientist Dr. Albert Tacon) it takes 5 times as many kilograms of anchovies to grow 1 kilogram of farmed salmon. During the scene where this is explained, a woman looked frankly at the camera and said, “Why don’t we just eat the anchovies?” With that in mind, try these recipes to diversify your palate:
- Spaghetti with Sardines, Dill and Fried Capers – use whole wheat pasta and Sardines from the US Pacific waters to get the maximum benefit.
- Broiled Mackerel with Ginger and Garlic
- Baked Trout with Shiitake Mushrooms, Tomatoes, and Ginger
Note: Selenium is a trace element and is very toxic if taken in excess, therefore never supplement with selenium.
June 5, 2008
May 31, 2008
Best Ribs: Charles Vergos' Rendezvous in Memphis
As a former vegetarian, I've never had ribs before. One of the reasons I stopped being a vegetarian was specifically for situations like going to Memphis. Sure I can get my fill of collard greens (though they have ham hock in the stock so I wouldn't have eaten them before), black eyed peas, and mac n' cheese, but those are just side dishes to the locals. Meat is king.
Before heading to Memphis, I did all kinds of research on where to get the best ribs. Memphis and ribs is like salad and Berkeley. A few places kept popping up: Central, Payne's, Interstate, Cozy Corner, Gus', and Rendezvous. Once in Memphis I asked a local shop owner near the Lorraine Motel where to get the best ribs. He confirmed Rendezvous whose website says, "Not since Adam has a rib been this famous."
You enter the restaurant from a semi-dark alley in downtown Memphis. The waitstaff has been working there for decades and they don't have time to socialize and butter you up for dinner. You order what you want and it comes to your table in less than ten minutes. You eat it and you like it. The ribs are dry rubbed with their special seasonings, served with a mustard coleslaw which I now prefer to its mayo counterpart.




Before heading to Memphis, I did all kinds of research on where to get the best ribs. Memphis and ribs is like salad and Berkeley. A few places kept popping up: Central, Payne's, Interstate, Cozy Corner, Gus', and Rendezvous. Once in Memphis I asked a local shop owner near the Lorraine Motel where to get the best ribs. He confirmed Rendezvous whose website says, "Not since Adam has a rib been this famous."
You enter the restaurant from a semi-dark alley in downtown Memphis. The waitstaff has been working there for decades and they don't have time to socialize and butter you up for dinner. You order what you want and it comes to your table in less than ten minutes. You eat it and you like it. The ribs are dry rubbed with their special seasonings, served with a mustard coleslaw which I now prefer to its mayo counterpart.




February 12, 2008
Experiment #2: Bohemian Sauerkraut
There are stories in my family of the large bucket of sauerkraut that was a permanent fixture in the basement of my grandparent's house. Being of Czech/Bohemian decent and with a surplus of cabbage from the CSA, I tried to call on the ghosts of the Krasny Family to experiment with the fermenting process.
The first attempt was using Alice Waters' recipe from the Art of Simple Food which called for added caraway seeds. I do not recommend. To me it sweetened the flavor and did not get as sour as I prefer it to be. However, the aforementioned cookbook is well worth the money.
The process is easy: slice the cabbage into very thin strips and put into a mixer with the correct proportion of salt (roughly 1.5 tsp per pound). Mix on low until a lot of water has been released from the cabbage. Place in a glass mason jar, at a weight to the top to keep the cabbage from rising above the water line. You can let it rest at a cool room temperature uncovered for a week, then put into the refrigerator.
THE CARAWAY SEED OPTION

THE STANDARD BOHEMIAN STYLE OPTION

The first attempt was using Alice Waters' recipe from the Art of Simple Food which called for added caraway seeds. I do not recommend. To me it sweetened the flavor and did not get as sour as I prefer it to be. However, the aforementioned cookbook is well worth the money.
The process is easy: slice the cabbage into very thin strips and put into a mixer with the correct proportion of salt (roughly 1.5 tsp per pound). Mix on low until a lot of water has been released from the cabbage. Place in a glass mason jar, at a weight to the top to keep the cabbage from rising above the water line. You can let it rest at a cool room temperature uncovered for a week, then put into the refrigerator.
THE CARAWAY SEED OPTION
THE STANDARD BOHEMIAN STYLE OPTION

January 28, 2008
Easy Dinner w/ CSA Produce
January 27, 2008
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